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Description

BROCHE EN PLATINE, OR, SAPHIRS, ÉMERAUDES, ONYX ET DIAMANTS, SIGNÉE CARTIER, COLLECTION PANTHÈRE

cabochon sapphires, drop-cut emeralds, onyx and brilliant-cut diamonds, French hallmarks for platinum, gold, PT950, goldsmith's mark and numbered 614285 Weight approx. 23.3 g, length approx. 5.5 cm A PLATINUM, GOLD, SAPPHIRE, EMERALD, ONYX AND DIAMOND BROOCH, SIGNED CARTIER, PANTHÈRE COLLECTION Jeanne Toussaint (1887-1976) was a Belgian-born French jeweler and fashion designer who exerted considerable influence on jewelry design after Louis Cartier appointed her director of haute joaillerie in 1933. She is best remembered for her panther motifs, which first appeared in 1914 as decoration on a Cartier watch and became the theme of several designs for the Duchess of Windsor, including an onyx bracelet in 1952. Toussaint is remembered for his long association with panthers, living in an apartment filled with panther skins and wearing a sparkling coat of panther fur. Cartier affectionately called her 'My little panther'. This association extended to his creations, starting with a wristwatch in 1914 and inspiring his jewelry and accessories. In the 1940s, Toussaint abandoned her earlier commitment to Art Deco to devote herself to three-dimensional sculptural works, often focusing on panthers set with diamonds, emeralds and onyx. From 1948, she created several especially for the Duchess of Windsor. She also created works based on dragonflies, ladybugs, birds of paradise, lions and tigers, as well as an impressive brooch featuring a pink flamingo, commissioned by the Duke of Windsor for his wife in 1940. She also specialized in jewelry inspired by the Mughuls and Maharajas of India. Jeanne Toussaint retired from Cartier in 1970 and died in Paris on May 7, 1976. Jeanne Toussaint (1887-1976) was a Belgian born French jeweller and fashion designer who exerted considerable influence on jewellery design after Louis Cartier appointed her Director of Fine Jewellery in 1933. She is remembered in particular for her panther designs which first appeared as a decoration for a Cartier watch in 1914 and became the theme of several creations for the Duchess of Windsor, including an onyx bracelet in 1952. Toussaint is remembered for her long association with panthers, living in an apartment full of panther skins and wearing a gleaming coat made of panther fur. Cartier affectionately called her 'Ma petite panthère'. The association extended to her designs, starting with a wristwatch in 1914 and inspiring her jewellery and accessories. In the 1940s, Toussaint moved from her earlier involvement with Art Deco into three dimensional sculptural work, often focusing on panthers set with diamonds, emeralds and onyx. From 1948, she created several of these specifically for the Duchess of Windsor. She also created works based on dragonflies, ladybirds, birds of paradise, lions and tigers and an impressive brooch of a flamingo, commissioned by the Duke of Windsor for his wife in 1940. Another of her specialities was jewellery inspired by the Mughuls and the Maharajas of India. Jeanne Toussaint retired from Cartier in 1970 and died in Paris on 7 May 1976.

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BROCHE EN PLATINE, OR, SAPHIRS, ÉMERAUDES, ONYX ET DIAMANTS, SIGNÉE CARTIER, COLLECTION PANTHÈRE

Estimate 25 000 - 35 000 EUR
Starting price 25 000 EUR

* Not including buyer’s premium.
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Sale fees: 30 %
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For sale on Monday 08 Jul : 16:45 (CEST)
monaco, Monaco
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