Leharia - Deux étoffes à turban

India, Rajasthan, early 19th century Two long fabrics, one in fine cotton muslin dyed using the laharia technique, which means "wave", the other in orange silk lampas embroidered with silver threads. Condition: slight chips and tears. Size: 280 x 14 cm and approx. 1040 x 10 cm. The paag (turban) is a symbol of identity, pride and courage in the Indian state of Rajasthan. Some of these turbans feature up to seven colors in a complex pattern of narrow zigzags that differ in size. The rhythmic sequence of zigzagging waves gives a fascinating impression of liveliness and a touch of modernity. Colors and patterns are related to seasons, rituals and ceremonies, as well as moods. Yellow, for example, is the color of spring and happiness. "Leheriya", the zig-zag pattern, represents rain and is worn during the rainy season. Very few turbans have survived. Some wear and tear testify to their frequent use and age. Only a handful of examples of this type of commercial fabric are known,For more information, see the exhibition "Peacock in the desert: the Royal arts of Jodhpur", Museum of fine arts, Houston, March 4 - August 19, 2018. Two leheria turbans, one tie-and-dyed, the other embroidered with silver, India, Rajasthan, early 19th century.