Cartier, "Tortue", 13969/3249/8852, circa 1920. An exceptional and primitive gold and platinum tonneau-shaped ladies' watch, diamond-set handles and bezel, silver dial, external minute track, radiating Roman numerals, blued steel hands. Diamond-set winding crown, yellow gold caseback secured by 4 screws on the middle, hand-wound mechanical movement signed Cartier/Paris. White gold bracelet with yellow gold folding clasp (numbered 487, hallmarked EJ and engraved Bte S.G.D.G.), the outer clasp adorned with rose-cut diamonds, hallmarked gold and platinum. Delivered in its original case, the watch is functional and in very good condition more than a century after its manufacture. Dial signed CARTIER, caseback with classic triple numbering, movement signed CARTIER PARIS, numbered folding clasp and Edmond Jaeger hallmark. The turn of the 20th century is particularly significant in the history of the House of Cartier, starting with its move to 13 rue de la Paix. After the opening of the London address and the first wristwatch on leather developed for Santos Dumont, a number of creations soon followed, models of which are still in use today and as popular as ever. In 1917, in parallel with the creation of the Tank, Pierre Cartier bought Morton Plant's iconic building on Fifth Avenue in New York for one hundred dollars and a pearl necklace (valued at one million dollars) for Mr. Plant's wife. It was in 1912 that Louis Cartier designed the first "Tortue" watch, which, once offered in the catalog, never left it. Our example represents a particularly rare opportunity to find a watch combining the aesthetic and historical aspects emblematic of the "jeweler of kings and king of jewelers", a famous phrase coined by the Prince of Wales and future Edward VII. Case size: 20 x 20 mm - With handles: 30 x 20 mm - Wrist circumference 15.50 cm - B.P. 35.5 g. An exceptional and primitive yellow gold and platinum tonneau-shape laidies wristwatch, the case in platinum with diamond-set bezel and lugs, silver dial, outer minute-track and radiant Roman numerals, blued steel hands. Yellow gold back secured by four screws in the ban, diamond-set crown, manual winding movement signed CARTIER PARIS. Original white gold band with yellow gold deployant buckle (stamped with maker's mark EJ in a lozenge, Bte S.G.D.G. and numbered 487), the exterior clasp adorned with rose-cut diamonds. Fitted with its original box, the watch is working and in very good condition, more than a century after its manufacture. Dial signed CARTIER, case back with the classic Cartier triple numbering, movement signed CARTIER PARIS, numbered buckle and maker's mark EJ for Edmond Jaeger, assay mark for gold and platinum. The turn of the 20th century is particularly significant in the history of the Cartier house, starting with its installation at 13 rue de la Paix. After the opening of the London address and the first leather wristwatch developed for Santos Dumont, many creations quickly followed, the models of which we still find updated today and still as popular as ever. In 1917, Pierre Cartier purchased his iconic building on Fifth Avenue in New York from Morton Plant for the sum of one hundred dollars and a pearl necklace (valued at one million dollars) for Mr. Plant's wife. It was in 1912 that Louis Cartier designed the first "Tortue" watch, which once included in the catalog was never released again. Our example constitutes a particularly rare opportunity to find a watch combining aesthetic and historical aspects emblematic of the "jeweler of kings and king of jewelers", famous expression of the Prince of Wales and future Edward VII.