Deux lisières aux personnages

A pair of Safavid silk and metal thread brocade fragments, Persia, 17th century Two gold brocaded silk borders depicting hatted bust figures in poly-lobed medallions, wearing headdresses and holding fruit, separated by stylized carnations and irises. Size: 39 cm each Provenance : Public sale, Pierre Bergé, April 23, 2010, no. 148. These textiles belong to a group of Safavid textiles that illustrate the apogee of Iranian weaving. Composed of bands of gold, these 'brocades' add a sumptuous quality to the sophisticated palette of pistachio green, salmon pink, cream and ochre with which lampas silk is woven. The result is an extravagant, labour-intensive textile that adds substantial value to the already expensive silk from which it is made. When the Safavids came to power in the early 16th century, Iran's textile industry was already well developed, and silk was expensive the world over. Under the reign of Shah Abbas I the Great (r. 1588-1629), silk became a state monopoly, representing the empire's leading export. The entire production process was strictly regulated and organised by royal agents from Isfahan. Part of a garment now lost, intended for the wealthiest social and political elites who, by wearing them, flaunted their wealth and high social status, these fabrics became sought-after artefacts, framed and mounted on the walls of museums and collectors' cabinets as if they were oil paintings. While flowers are a regular feature of weavings, the presence of human figures reveals a level of execution even more demanding than floral motifs.