Description
Émile Désiré PHILIPPE (Paris 1834-1880) Superb and rare set in vermeil, 800 silver and 750 thousandths gold, adorned with polychrome cloisonné enamel, comprising an open-worked bangle bracelet centered on a sphinx punctuated by a turquoise cabochon with sphinxes, adorned with a gold ratchet clasp, an articulated necklace decorated with lapis lazuli scarabs representing Khepri, the god of the rising sun symbolizing rebirth, punctuated with a garnet cabochon and papyrus motifs, an identical brooch that can be worn as a pendant representing Isis wearing a solar disk, the whole adorned with 3 pendants decorated with turquoise and a garnet, and a pair of earrings stylizing vultures in flight, representing the goddess Nekhbet, symbol of Pharaonic protection. Signed and hallmarked for the bracelet and brooch. Master hallmarks for the earrings. Finely chased backs. Circa 1870. Gross weight of bracelet: 82.60 g. Inside dimensions: 5.7 x 5 cm. Gross weight of necklace: 79.10 g. Length: 45 cm. Gross weight of brooch: 24 g. Dim: 6.5 x 3.6 cm.(small transformation) In 1873, Émile Philippe, a pupil of ]ules Wièse père, produced his first Egyptian jewelry. The fashion had long been out of France; Italian jeweler Carlo Giuliano created an important brooch in London with two horse heads, a lotus flower and a mask. While Castellani and Fontenay based their Etruscan-style jewelry experiments on rigorous, analytical observations, Egyptian-style craftsmen were content with a repertoire that lacked archaeological fidelity and whose evocative spirit was associated with the exoticism of Pharaonic Egypt. For example, the ancient Egyptian technique of cloisonné enamel was rarely used in antiquity, color contrasts being obtained by inlays of stone or glass. Nevertheless, in the 19th century, cloisonné enamel was generously applied to so-called "Egyptian" jewelry, which nonetheless faithfully retained the Napoleon III style. In its most popular form, the engraved gold sphinx, lotus flower or scarab souvenir was marketed, along with turquoise, cabochon garnet and lapis lazuli. Originally, the Egyptian collection of Louis-François Cartier, founder of the House, was hardly distinguishable from those of his competitors. Cartier's 1852 inventory lists a scarab bracelet in pearls and enamel, followed by a scarab brooch in 1854 and a scarab ring in 1860. Text from Mr Jean-Jacques RICHARD's Blog
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Émile Désiré PHILIPPE (Paris 1834-1880) Superb and rare set in vermeil, 800 silver and 750 thousandths gold, adorned with polychrome cloisonné enamel, comprising an open-worked bangle bracelet centered on a sphinx punctuated by a turquoise cabochon with sphinxes, adorned with a gold ratchet clasp, an articulated necklace decorated with lapis lazuli scarabs representing Khepri, the god of the rising sun symbolizing rebirth, punctuated with a garnet cabochon and papyrus motifs, an identical brooch that can be worn as a pendant representing Isis wearing a solar disk, the whole adorned with 3 pendants decorated with turquoise and a garnet, and a pair of earrings stylizing vultures in flight, representing the goddess Nekhbet, symbol of Pharaonic protection. Signed and hallmarked for the bracelet and brooch. Master hallmarks for the earrings. Finely chased backs. Circa 1870. Gross weight of bracelet: 82.60 g. Inside dimensions: 5.7 x 5 cm. Gross weight of necklace: 79.10 g. Length: 45 cm. Gross weight of brooch: 24 g. Dim: 6.5 x 3.6 cm.(small transformation) In 1873, Émile Philippe, a pupil of ]ules Wièse père, produced his first Egyptian jewelry. The fashion had long been out of France; Italian jeweler Carlo Giuliano created an important brooch in London with two horse heads, a lotus flower and a mask. While Castellani and Fontenay based their Etruscan-style jewelry experiments on rigorous, analytical observations, Egyptian-style craftsmen were content with a repertoire that lacked archaeological fidelity and whose evocative spirit was associated with the exoticism of Pharaonic Egypt. For example, the ancient Egyptian technique of cloisonné enamel was rarely used in antiquity, color contrasts being obtained by inlays of stone or glass. Nevertheless, in the 19th century, cloisonné enamel was generously applied to so-called "Egyptian" jewelry, which nonetheless faithfully retained the Napoleon III style. In its most popular form, the engraved gold sphinx, lotus flower or scarab souvenir was marketed, along with turquoise, cabochon garnet and lapis lazuli. Originally, the Egyptian collection of Louis-François Cartier, founder of the House, was hardly distinguishable from those of his competitors. Cartier's 1852 inventory lists a scarab bracelet in pearls and enamel, followed by a scarab brooch in 1854 and a scarab ring in 1860. Text from Mr Jean-Jacques RICHARD's Blog
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