Francesco SMALTO

A LARGE EMBROIDERED AND PAINTED STANDING PORTRAIT OF A GREEK EVZONOS (MEMBER OF THE GREEK ARMY LIGHT INFANTRY AND MOUNTAIN UNITS) Greece, ex-Ottoman Balkan provinces, second half 19th century Of rectangular shape, embroidered in polychrome cotton threads in a variety of stitches, including metal thread French knots and spangles, on a light blue silk satin ground, the face and hands oil painted on canvas and stitched on the satin ground, the mixed fabric and painting patchwork portrait depicting a Greek evzonos (also known as evzones or evzonoi) standing on top of a hill overlooking a coast-line or harbour-like seascape, wearing a traditional Balkan pleated skirt-like garment called fustanella, with an embroidered long-sleeved black vest, around his waist a belt with a pocket knife and a palaska (cartridge case), resting his right elbow on a matchlock rifle, mounted, glazed and framed, 105cm x 60cm including the frame. The fustanella dress with its typical embroidered waistcoat and jacket originates in the Balkan territories and was particularly popular among Albanians. However, in the 19th century, several other nationalities started wearing it, including the British regiment stationed in the Ionian Islands in the 1810s, as well as the revolutionary fighters of the War of Independence in Greece in the 1820s. Because of this association with Western army troops, the fustanella became a principal visual symbol of Philhellenism and resistance against the Ottomans. Consolidated as an emblem of male bravery and national heroism, the fustanella was proclaimed the official court costume and national dress in Greece in 1835 and a shorter version of it became the traditional military attire worn by ceremonial and light infantry units, such as the evzones, in 1868.