GROS & DELETTREZ - Un regard Chanel

On the upcoming 18 March, auction house Gros & Delettrez, in association with Chombert & Sternbach, will offer a sale entirely dedicated to Chanel’s creations from Princess Leona Magaloff’s former collection. The singer, who notably performed during Salzbourg’s festival and at the Volksoper of Vienna, settled in Paris during the 60’s to pursue her passion for fashion. Jewels and accessories compose this exceptional collection, showing the unique savoir-faire of the brand and its collaboration with prominent designers such as Victoire de Castellane, Robert Goosens or Maison Gripoix. 

Robert Goossens, goldsmith of Gabrielle Chanel 
 

Robert Goossens (1927-2016) started working at Chanel in the 50’s after having collaborated at Cartier. Internally, he rapidly became « Monsieur Bijou » and the master of costume jewelry. He was fascinated by the Antiquity period and draw his inspiration from Byzantine, Visigoth or Etruscan cultures to create jewels enhanced with glass, imitating pearls, strass, rubies or sapphires.

The exceptional torc from Princess Leona Magaloff’s collection perfectly illustrates the quality of execution and the tidious details of the jewels made by the designer. Executed during the 60’s, the jewel is made of engraved plates which are pierced and adorned with cabochons imitating rubies and emeralds. (Estimate: €2,500-2,800 ; image nº3)
A necklace of imitated white baroque pearls and Swarovski strass which belonged to Princess Leona Magaloff will also be featured. (Estimate: €1,500-1,700 € ; image nº8)

Then comes a belt made of articulated gilt metal plaques which closes with a wonderful Renaissance inspired buckle. This plaque is adorned with a glass cabochon imitating emeralds, rubies and white pearls. 

These two last pieces were also realised in the 60’s. 

Victoire de Castellane started her career in 1984 alongside Karl Lagerfeld. She worked for Chanel until 1998. First, she was a studio assistant, but quickly became responsible for Chanel’s costume jewelry. She brought to the brand her fantastic and playful touch with a reference to Pop culture. After 14 years at Chanel, she joined Dior and became the creative director of Christian Dior’s fine jewelry section. 

I begin with a context, a world, never with materials. I find my stories in everything I observe and experience – rebellion, love, sexuality, pleasure, violence, protection, psychoanalysis and my taste for fairy tales. Victoire de Castellane, exhibition catalogue of Fleur d’excès dedicated to Victoire de Castellane’s creations at Dior, exhibited at Gagosian Gallery in 2011. 

A cuff strap designed by Victoire de Castellane for Chanel’s ready-to-wear Fall/Winter 1990-1991 collection was part of Leona Magaloff collection. These jewels are of gilt metal inlaid with glass cabochons imitating emeralds, ruby and sapphire. (Estimate: €1,400-1,600 ; image 5)
 

 

A cuff strap designed by Victoire de Castellane  Collection prêt-à-porter Chanel Automne/hiver 1990-1991 Estimate: €1,400-1,600  ©Gros&Delettrez/Drouot

Gripoix was created by Augustine Gripoix in 1869, who had previously worked in Haute-Couture and notably at Chanel. In 1970, she acquired the Gasse company which produced glass paste, and started to create her own savoir-faire. 

One of the greatest piece in this sale is a necklace realised in 1969. The double chain ends with a wonderful glass pendant flanked with Swarovski strass and white pearls. (Estimate : €5,800-6,200 ; image 1)

The sale of this Princely collection shows wonderful jewels realised by Gripoix. It includes a necklace with large white pearls, enhanced by an important gilt metal and pink glass flower (Estimate : €1,000-1,200 ; image 2 and 6) and a gilt metal and glass imitating emerald and ruby pin (Estimate : €500-600 ; image 7). These pieces were signed and also realised respectively circa 1985 and 1965.
 

This sale – which includes some 500 pieces with estimates starting at €100 - will be the occasion to acquire clothes, bags, jewels, accessories whether Haute Couture or Ready-to-Wear of Chanel’s different periods. 

Auction - Drouot - Salleroom 4
Monday 18 March - 13.30pm

Public exhibition - Drouot - Salleroom 4
Saturday 16 March - 11am / 18pm
Monday 18 March - 11am / 12pm