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Kenzo。 一件Kenzo炭灰色细条纹羊毛夹克,约1990年代款,修身单排扣款式,配有缺口领和翻领,腰部收紧,带盖口袋;细条纹羊毛外层与蓝色印花面料细节形成鲜明对比,包括翻领、 前缝及袖口处;采用一系列刻意不匹配的镀金金属纽扣系合,纽扣形态与设计各异,面料为100%羊毛,对比色条纹面料为100%棉,内衬为100%粘胶纤维,意大利尺码42 B级 备注: 这件夹克展现了Kenzo将传统欧洲剪裁与图案丰富的面料并置的标志性风格。受传统男装启发的细条纹构成了结构基础,而出人意料的花卉拼接片、印花衬里以及各具特色的镀金纽扣,则打破了剪裁的庄重感,赋予这件作品鲜明的折衷主义风格。 当解开夹克纽扣时,这种对比效果尤为突出——内里并非传统的素色衬里,而是由多种不同的印花与条纹拼接而成。 肯佐(Kenzo)该时期的女装常将剪裁工艺与装饰性色彩、图案及对比面料相结合,这反映了该品牌长期以来对融合看似截然不同的纺织传统所怀有的兴趣。 据记载,1990年代类似的Kenzo复古夹克通常采用细条纹剪裁、花卉内衬及对比鲜明的图案细节;现存的法国42码款式进一步佐证了其年代归属。 (1stDibs) 这款夹克内部做工异常精巧,是其重要特色:花卉图案羊毛面料不仅用于隐蔽的内衬,还出现在翻领和前襟周围;此外,蓝色花卉面料被用作窄条状的外饰点缀以及宽大的袖口饰片。 这些细节与不规则搭配的金属纽扣相辅相成,将原本风格内敛的细条纹夹克,转化为肯佐(Kenzo)在20世纪后期裁缝工艺中折衷主义风格的极具装饰性的典范之作。
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