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ANDREW GRIMA: A BI-COLOURED TOURMALINE CRYSTAL 'PARCEL' PENDANT, CIRCA 1997 The rough bi-coloured tourmaline crystal, shading from pale pink to deep green, within a cage of polished gold wire knotted and looped around the crystal, to a surmount of knotted wire loops, mounted in 18K gold, signed Grima, with maker's case, length 7.8cm Accompanied by its original invoice signed by Andrew Grima, Gstaad, August 14th 1997 & a photograph of the pendant's original drawing, dated 1997. Condition Report: Minor signs of wear, overall in good condition Total gross weight approx. 64.1g Accompanied by its original invoice signed by Andrew Grima, Gstaad, August 14th 1997 & a photograph of the pendant's original drawing, dated 1997. Born in Rome and raised in London, Andrew Grima was a popular figure at the glittering parties and events of 1960s London, his glamorous shop in Jermyn Street almost as alluring as the man within. The self-taught designer is widely credited with having revolutionised jewellery design in the 20th century. Set apart from his contemporaries by his lack of artistic or other formal training, he is said to have considered this a great advantage, as it made him a “pure designer”, limited only by his imagination. His flamboyant and unconventional designs allowed the precious stones he worked with to shine in their raw and brilliant state, unconfined by typical cuts and traditional methods of production. A close friend of Princess Margaret and her then husband, Lord Snowdon, Grima produced a brooch of lichen cast in gold for the Princess. This caught the eye of Prince Philip, who subsequently purchased a ruby and gold flower brooch for the Queen, which she still wears regularly today. Both of these pieces are similar in concept and design to the leaf brooch on offer in this sale. Other well-known clients of the day included Barbara Hepworth and Jacqueline Onassis, while Grima’s pieces were also regularly modelled by the likes of Ursula Andress, as well as by Jean Shrimpton on the cover of Vogue in 1965. Present-day fans include fashion designers Miuccia Prada and Marc Jacobs. Grima’s contribution to the art of jewellery design has been highly commended internationally. He is the only jeweller to have been awarded the Duke of Edin burgh Prize for Elegant Design, and his service to the industry was recognised with The Queen’s Award for Export. He also won the De Beers Diamonds International Award a record thirteen times. Today, Andrew is survived by his wife, Jojo, and daughter, Francesca, who continue to run the business, producing a small collection of 20–30 pieces each year, as well as undertaking bespoke commissions. Each piece is created by the same goldsmiths who have worked for Grima for over forty years, ensuring that the spirit and imagination of the great designer remain alive and are imbued in each creation.
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