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BULGARI: A CORAL AND 18K GOLD 'CORNICELLO' CHARM LONG NECKLACE, CIRCA 1970 The anchor-link chain suspending twenty-nine graduated carved Corralium rubrum coral horn charms, each with polished gold cap, to a toggle clasp, in 18K gold, signed Bvlgari, stamped 750, length 81cm **Prospective buyers are advised that several countries prohibit the importation of items containing materials from endangered species, such as coral. Therefore, buyers should familiarise themselves with relevant customs regulations before bidding if they plan to import this lot into another country. Condition Report: Normal signs of wear commensurate with age, overall in good condition Total gross weight approx. 131.5g This is not a typical design from Bulgari - it was probably a piece made then retailed by Bulgari in the 1970s which was common practice for the jewellery house. The small, curved horn known as the cornetto or cornicello belongs to a Mediterranean tradition of wearing amulets against the evil eye: the harmful influence believed to arise from envy or excessive admiration. Particularly associated with Naples, its form has been linked to the defensive power of animal horns and to ideas of fertility and prosperity. Its precise origins remain uncertain, but its purpose is clear: to protect the wearer from misfortune. Red coral, a customary material for the charm, added another layer of protection. Worn by children in ancient Rome, it later appeared around the neck of the Christ Child in Italian paintings, reflecting an enduring belief in its power to safeguard the vulnerable. During the 1970s, Bulgari offered its own interpretations of the cornetto in yellow gold, drawing on a symbol deeply rooted in Italian popular culture. These jewels brought a familiar wish for protection and good fortune into the house’s repertoire, connecting precious jewellery with the customs of everyday Italian life. The horn was joined by other auspicious motifs, including the four leaf clover, which Bulgari interpreted in gold and steel pendants within its Tondo collection. Decades later, the house explored a related shape in its 2017 Festa collection. The Peperoncini necklace transformed chillies into carved gemstones. Conceived within a celebration of Italian festivities and food, these colourful forms also prompted comparisons with the traditional protective horn, bringing a familiar association with good fortune into the language of high jewellery.
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