32 - ANTOINE BRICTEUX: AN ART NOUVEAU OPAL BROOCH Of stylised foliate design, composed of sweeping textured leaves, highlighted by two circular-cut opal cabochon pistils, mounted in 18K gold, with maker’s mark for Antoine Bricteux, French assay marks, length 6.5cm

ANTOINE BRICTEUX: AN ART NOUVEAU OPAL BROOCH Of stylised foliate design, composed of sweeping textured leaves, highlighted by two circular-cut opal cabochon pistils, mounted in 18K gold, with maker’s mark for Antoine Bricteux, French assay marks, length 6.5cm Condition Report: Opals: strong play-of-colour of green, blue and orange hues, translucent, discreet crazing visible on one of the opals under 10x magnification and a bright light source, surface otherwise in good condition Eagle’s head marks for French 18K gold located on pin and brooch fitting Maker’s mark located on brooch fitting Normal signs of wear, overall in good condition Total gross weight approx. 16.6g Antoine Bricteux was a French Art Nouveau jeweller known for his finely chased metalwork and use of translucent enamel. He registered as a jeweller in Paris in 1866 and moved his workshop to the rue des Petits Champs in 1882, where it operated until its closure in 1927. Flowers and foliage were characteristic motifs of Art Nouveau jewellery. In Bricteux’s floral designs, the sweep of a stem or the curve of a leaf could determine the outline of the jewel. Opal brings a movement of its own, with its colours shifting as the jewel catches the light. Few details of Bricteux’s career and work survive, but his jewels reveal the care and skill with which they were made. His pieces occasionally come to market, where they are admired for their intricate workmanship and as fine examples of Art Nouveau jewellery. One example is illustrated in Tadema Gallery’s book Jewellery from the 1860s to 1960s (2021, cat. no. 223).