721 - René BOIVIN

René BOIVIN Platinum ring (850‰) set with a coral “shell” cabochon at the center; the prongs form architectural steps with rectangular plates. Signed on the band; the Master Goldsmith’s hallmark is partially worn. Minimal signs of resizing. An original creation by the René BOIVIN house, circa 1930, based on a design by Suzanne BELPERRON. The ring comes with its certificate of authenticity from the house, dated October 30, 2026. Ring size 45, with sizing beads Approximately ring size 56, without sizing beads Gross weight: 11.7 gr CM Red coral (Corallium rubrum), a species not regulated under CITES or EC Regulation 338/97 of December 9, 1996. RENÉ BOIVIN — Jeweler to the Elite Behind this famous name lies the story of an exceptional house, shaped by unique and daring female visions. Although René Boivin (1864–1917) was indeed its founder, he did not live to see the heyday of the house that bears his name. A pioneer in the use of antique and Orientalist motifs, long before the advent of Art Deco, he created a house where the intelligentsia of the early 20th century gathered. His wife, Jeanne—sister of the famous fashion designer Paul Poiret—took the reins after his death and, beginning in the 1920s, gave the fashion house a new lease on life. It was she who brought on board a young designer fresh out of the École des Beaux-Arts in Besançon: Suzanne Belperron. Their collaboration, which lasted twelve years, gave rise to a distinctive aesthetic, soon enriched by the talent of Germaine Boivin, then that of Jeanne Moutard, and, more recently, Marie-Caroline de Brosses. All of them would help define the Boivin style, cement the house’s reputation, and elevate it to the pinnacle of avant-garde jewelry and Parisian chic. They explored contrasts and unexpected combinations: precious materials and more modest ones, polished surfaces and matte finishes, colored gemstones that were still rarely used at the time, organic materials, and hardstones. At Boivin, every commission, every piece of jewelry is conceived as a sculpture in its own right—a unique work in which volume, material, and color interact freely. A jewelry sculpture with Art Deco accents This ring is a true sculpture, an ode to Art Deco architecture. Created based on a design by Suzanne Belperron, it embodies the essential characteristics of this genius colorist’s bold style. It reflects her penchant for natural materials, embodied here by a Mediterranean red coral cabochon. Its rounded shape seems to soar toward the sky, projected into a parabolic arch that evokes the peaks of the impressive New York skyscrapers of that era. This spectacular volume contrasts with the almost brutalist simplicity of the shank, structured in rectangular steps. The vibrant warmth and depth of the coral are balanced by the understated elegance of matte platinum, the iconic metal of that era. The contrast between materials, textures, and volumes gives the ring a striking architectural presence, where the power of form is combined with a remarkable mastery of color.