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VAN CLEEF & ARPELS Rare "toi & moi" ring in domed yellow gold (750‰), set with brilliant-cut diamonds and calibrated sapphires in a mystery setting. French craftsmanship, circa 1970–80. Signed VAN CLEEF ARPELS, numbered. Jeweler’s master’s hallmark. Excellent overall condition. Ring size: 47. Gross weight: 13.7 g. Bibliography: for a similar model: VAN CLEEF & ARPELS, F. Falluel, L. Schiffer, Palais Galliera, published by Paris-Musées, 1992. Instantly recognizable and the ultimate symbol of VAN CLEEF & ARPELS’ creativity, the “Serti Mystérieux”—patented in the 1930s—is a technique that follows precise guidelines, mastered by only a very small number of jewelers. Only creations made for Van Cleef & Arpels are granted the registered designation “Serti Mystérieux.” This technique consists of a mesh—visible only on the reverse side of the piece, with no prongs—composed of a network of fine wires holding high-quality sapphires, cut one by one with absolute precision, allowing the stem to fit into the gemstone so that it remains invisible. This technical feat requires hundreds of hours of work by both the gem cutter and the jeweler. Expert: Annabelle Cukierman
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