34 - VAN CLEEF & ARPELS

VAN CLEEF & ARPELS Title: Important Gemstone and Diamond Jabot Pin. Origin: USA, New York. Date: ca. 1940–50. Material: Platinum, hallmark; pin: 750/- red gold, tested. Weight: 27.5 g. Dimensions: Length 10 cm, width 7.8 cm. Description: 1 rectangular, faceted diamond, 8.5 x 10.9 mm, M/SI2; approximately 95 old-cut diamonds, totaling approximately 5.4 ct., H-J/VS-SI, 8 diamonds in carré and 8/8 cuts, 1 diamond in a pear cut, approx. 0.8 ct., bicolor ranging from whiskey-colored to slightly yellowish. 1 sugar-loaf-shaped sapphire, 12.85 x 10.12 x 9.50 mm, presumably 11.69 ct. (scratched), intense, brilliant, and velvety blue, probably Burmese; 1 emerald in an emerald cut, approx. 3.7 ct., brilliant, intense green, presumably Colombian; 7 rubies in various cuts, totaling approx. 1.3 ct.; 7 round emerald cabochons, Ø approx. 2.2–3.7 mm, 10 carved sapphires, approx. 4.1–5.2 x 3.3–3.6 mm. Signed “V.C.A.” on the pin. Decorative element signed “Van Cleef & Arpels.” Additional hallmarks “N.Y.” and individual number “28671” on the pin and decorative element. “DEPOSE” as an additional hallmark on the central main element. The sapphire’s carat weight is scratched into the back of the setting. This exquisite jabot pin is a striking embodiment of the bold, sculptural style of American jewelry design in the 1940s. At its center is an imposing sugarloaf sapphire, whose dramatically elevated profile lends the pin a pronounced three-dimensional quality. Surrounded by diamonds and carved colored gemstones, and accented by an emerald and a fancy-colored diamond, the composition follows a clear visual hierarchy, combining dominant colored gemstones, precise contours, and architectural volumes. In this respect, the pin differs from French haute joaillerie, although its geometric clarity still reflects the formal language of Art Deco. It embodies the “skyscraper” aesthetic characteristic of American design, with its daring forms and monumental proportions. This development should also be viewed in the context of Van Cleef & Arpels’ opening of its New York boutique on Fifth Avenue in 1929, through which the Parisian maison strategically expanded into the American market. The jabot pin is a prime example of an American interpretation of the Van Cleef & Arpels aesthetic: larger in scale, more sculptural, and more architectural. The articulated strand of diamonds suspended from a small emerald can rotate, adding a playful touch to this important jewel. Provenance: - From a private German collection. Enclosure: Original box included. Estimated shipping costs for this lot: Domestic: This lot is not suitable for parcel shipping. Transport must be arranged through a shipping company following consultation after the auction. EU: 625.00 euros plus 118.75 euros VAT Third country: 625.00 Euro plus 118.75 Euro VAT Additional shipping insurance Shipping insurance up to a total invoice amount of 25,000 Euros: max. 41.65 Euro For a total invoice amount exceeding 25,000 Euros: 1.8 per thousand USA: Shipping to be arranged individually after the auction. #Van Cleef & Arpels #USA, New York #gemstones #1940s #Platinum #Pin #Jewelry.