133 - Cartier

Cartier A French 18k yellow gold and diamond "Mahango Panthère" suite, composed of a bracelet and a pair of creole clip earrings with walking panthers. Necklace of flexible links in a brickwork pattern on the reverse and curved links at the front, featuring five applied reliefs of walking panthers. These, together with the contoured borders, are set with brilliant-cut diamonds (total approx. 5.03 ct, H/I, VS). Concealed clasp with safety catch. The matching earrings are designed as open hoops, each featuring two panthers set with small brilliant-cut diamonds. Hallmarks: French gold hallmark “tête d’aigle”, fineness 750, “Cartier”, maker’s mark “PB” for Pierre Brun, numbered 633730 (necklace), 633993 (earrings). Two small diamonds missing. Necklace: Inner dimensions 11.5 × 12.5 cm; width 1.6 cm; weight 153.59 g. Earrings: Height 3.5 cm; width 1.5 cm; combined weight 45.06 g. Total weight 198.67 g. Cartier, Paris, c. 1990. The supple panther, a symbol of strength and elegance, has been one of Cartier’s signature motifs since 1914. Under the legendary creative director Jeanne Toussaint, who first brought the motif to life in three dimensions in the 1930s, it became a timeless icon of the prestigious jeweller and continues to shape its Haute Joaillerie collections to this day, in a variety of interpretations. Literature Cf. Bennett/Mascetti, Understanding Jewellery: The 20th Century, 2021, p. 264. Illustrated here are a necklace and bracelet from the Mahango Panthère Collection.