96 - Kenzo.

Kenzo. A Kenzo charcoal-grey pinstriped wool jacket, circa 1990s, of fitted single-breasted form with a notched collar and lapels, shaped waist and flap pockets, the fine pinstriped wool exterior contrasted throughout with blue printed textile details, including floral-patterned panels to the lapels, front seams and cuffs; fastened with a deliberately mismatched series of gilt-metal buttons of varying forms and designs, of 100% wool, the contrasting striped fabric is 100% cotton and the body lining 100% viscose, of Italian size 42 Grade B Notes: The jacket demonstrates Kenzo’s characteristic juxtaposition of traditional European tailoring with richly patterned textiles. A conventional menswear-inspired pinstripe provides the structural foundation, while the unexpected floral panels, patterned facings and individually varied gilt buttons disrupt the sobriety of the tailoring and give the piece a distinctly eclectic character. The contrast is especially effective when the jacket is opened, revealing an interior assembled from several different prints and stripes rather than a conventional plain lining. Kenzo’s womenswear of the period frequently combined tailoring with decorative colour, pattern and contrasting fabric, reflecting the house’s longstanding interest in mixing apparently disparate textile traditions. Comparable vintage Kenzo jackets from the 1990s are documented with pinstriped tailoring, floral linings and contrasting patterned details; surviving examples in French size 42 further support the period attribution. (1stDibs) The unusually elaborate internal finishing is an important feature of this example: the floral wool is not restricted to a concealed lining but reappears around the lapels and front opening, while additional blue floral cloth is introduced as narrow external accents and broad cuff panels. Together with the mismatched metal buttons, these details transform an otherwise restrained pinstriped jacket into a highly decorative example of Kenzo’s eclectic approach to late-20th-century tailoring.