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Thierry Mugler. A Thierry Mugler black embellished evening jacket,circa late 1980s, of sculpted, fitted form with pronounced shoulders and a sharply defined waist, the textured black ground applied with dramatic three-dimensional sequinned floral motifs to the shoulder and bodice, with a corresponding flower embellishment to the cuff; finished with turned-back cuffs, a pointed peplum and a long self-fabric belt; labelled Thierry Mugler Paris, Made in France, French size 46. Provenance: An Important Private Collection. Grade B Notes: Thierry Mugler’s tailoring of the 1980s was conceived almost architecturally, transforming the female silhouette through exaggerated shoulders, tightly controlled waists and sculptural construction. His jackets in particular became among the most recognisable expressions of the house, combining the precision of traditional tailoring with the theatricality of couture. The present jacket is distinguished by its oversized floral embellishments, which rise from the dark textured ground rather than functioning simply as surface decoration. Concentrated asymmetrically across the shoulder and chest, the flowers emphasise the jacket’s dramatic upper silhouette, while the additional motif at the cuff creates a deliberate visual balance. Their glossy sequinned surfaces contrast with the restrained black fabric, allowing the decoration to emerge through texture and reflected light. The combination of a sharply moulded waist, pointed peplum, pronounced shoulders and elaborate three-dimensional ornament reflects the increasingly theatrical character of Mugler’s late-1980s collections, in which tailored garments frequently incorporated jewel-like embellishment and sculptural appliqué. Cf. Thierry Mugler runway collections of the mid-to-late 1980s, for similarly sculpted black tailoring and dramatic embellished evening jackets.
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