705 - Amethyst and seed pearl parure, necklace, bangle, drop and stud earrings, probably late 19th century

Amethyst and seed pearl parure, necklace, bangle, drop and stud earrings, probably late 19th century Silver-gilt. Necklace with amethysts and seed pearls, unmarked, with associated bangle, associated drop earrings and additionally included matching stud earrings, probably late 19th century. 1) Necklace: chain of 25 oval faceted amethysts in claw settings, interspersed with leaf-shaped intermediate links, each with two seed pearls; centrepiece with a round faceted amethyst surrounded by four oval faceted amethysts in pierced scrollwork with seed pearls, below a movably suspended oval amethyst; on each side a rosette of a round faceted amethyst within a surround of seed pearls and with a suspended oval amethyst; 35 amethysts in total; settings open at the back; push-in clasp with safety chain; L. 43 cm. 2) Associated bangle: hinged bangle with safety chain, narrow double-rail band, the front with pierced scroll and leaf work with volutes, set with seed pearls and small metal beads; on it a cluster of seven faceted amethysts in claw settings, the central one oval and larger. 3) Associated drop earrings, made from links of the necklace, which was probably shortened at some time: lever-back fitting, below a leaf-shaped link with two seed pearls, pierced intermediate link with flower rosette, suspended oval faceted amethyst in claw setting; H. 3.5 cm. 4) Additionally included stud earrings, marked, probably 333 rose gold: round faceted amethyst in claw setting, screw back; D. 0.6 cm. Very good condition commensurate with age. In an accompanying black case with gold-coloured printing “E. Rothmann”, “Uhren & Goldwaaren” and “Werdau i.S.”, good condition commensurate with age. Amethyst, the violet variety of quartz, takes its name from the Greek amethystos, counteracting intoxication: since antiquity the stone has been regarded as a protection against drunkenness and was associated with the wine god Dionysus. It adorns the rings of bishops as well as the British coronation regalia and is the birthstone of the month of February. The combination of necklace, bangle and ear jewellery in a shared case follows the tradition of the parure, the matching jewellery set, which came into fashion anew in the 19th century; sets of coloured stones were intended for daytime, diamonds for formal occasions. Seed pearls, natural pearls of less than two millimetres, imported mainly from India and China, characterised the jewellery of the 19th century and were regarded as an expression of modesty; seed pearl sets were a popular bridal gift. Necklaces with faceted amethysts, seed pearls and scrollwork of silver-gilt probably belong to the jewellery of Historicism; a necklace with an emphasised centrepiece is referred to as a centrepiece necklace.