94 - VAN CLEEF & ARPELS, 1960s

VAN CLEEF & ARPELS, 1960s “Squirrel” lapel clip brooch in 750‰ yellow gold and 950‰ platinum; its body consists of an oval cabochon turquoise set in a closed setting, with a chiseled head and tail, and its eye accented by a round faceted ruby framed by 8/8-cut diamonds. Pins in 750‰ white gold. Signed “VAN CLEEF & ARPELS 750 ©” and numbered “94795”. Made in France; diamond-shaped hallmark of the PERY & Fils workshop. Dimensions: 3.2 x 2.8 cm. Gross weight: 9.7 g. In 1954, Van Cleef & Arpels launched an innovative concept: “La Boutique.” With the goal of attracting a younger clientele, the House opened a boutique at its flagship location, 22 Place Vendôme, and presented more accessible pieces produced in limited editions. The designs are distinguished by meticulous goldwork (featuring textured and twisted finishes, among others) and the use of decorative gemstones (lapis lazuli, coral, onyx, chrysoprase, etc.). At the heart of these highly successful collections were animal-themed brooches. Our squirrel is one of these iconic designs produced for Van Cleef & Arpels and “La Boutique,” showcasing the sense of humor infused into these pieces of jewelry meant for everyday wear. Since the 1920s, the PERY & Fils workshop has been a key manufacturer for Van Cleef & Arpels, creating designs ranging from the “Zip” to the “Passe-partout,” the “Pelouse,” and the “Ludo.” Among its creations, the animal-themed collections are particularly noteworthy, taking the form of various lapel clip brooches (cats, dogs, rams, lions, and even birds).