91 - MARCHAK Paris, 1950s–1960s

MARCHAK Paris, 1950s–1960s A tall cocktail ring crafted from 750‰ yellow and white gold wires, featuring an oval cabochon moonstone set in a circle of brilliant-cut diamonds, surmounted by three rows of square- and rectangular-cut rubies set in a rail setting along the outer edge, which tapers to a point. Signed “marchak PARIS” and numbered “33361.” Made in France, with a diamond-shaped workshop hallmark. Ring size: 55.5. Setting width: 2.1 cm. Setting height: 2.1 cm. Gross weight: 20.5 g. (Scratches, slight cracks, alteration at the top of the setting). Founded in Kiev in 1878, the Marchak House—specializing in jewelry, fine jewelry, and goldsmithing—established itself in Paris in the 1920s, then in New York in the 1950s. Discreet in nature, the House of Marchak has successfully reinvented and revitalized itself while maintaining its unique identity—from the era of Tsarist Russia, through the Art Deco period, the 1950s and 1960s, and more recently, since the 2000s.Our ring is part of the brand’s revival during the 1950s and 1960s. This was a flourishing period for the brand, which brought together leading designers and illustrators who breathed new life into it: Jacques Verger, Alexandre Diringer, and Bertrand Degommier.The Marchak House distinguished itself at that time particularly through its treatment of nature-inspired themes (plants, flowers, animals), combining volume and color with a touch of exuberance. The cocktail rings produced during this period by the House particularly embody the “Marchak style”—full of volume and color—and enjoyed tremendous success, both in France and in the United States. Bibliography: CERVAL de, Marguerite, *Marchak*, Editions du Regard, Paris, 2006.