30 - CARTIER London, circa 1925

CARTIER London, circa 1925 A navette-shaped brooch in 750‰ yellow gold and 850‰ platinum centered on a rectangular frame of barrel-shaped rock crystal with scalloped shoulders, flanked by two stylized foliage motifs enhanced with black and red enamel and set with cabochon emeralds and 8/8-cut diamonds. Pin in 375‰ yellow gold. Trace of “?985” hallmark and point engraving “EX41”. Dimensions: 2.3 x 5.1 cm. Gross weight: 8.8 g. (Minor chips and scratches on the enamel; slight scuffs on the emeralds). Accompanied by an IAJA appraisal dated September 11, 2026 (No. XP3173-110926) stating: Cartier London, circa 1925. This brooch, through its materials, design, and motifs, is a characteristic example of the influence of Persian and Indian arts on the London creations of the House of Cartier in the 1920s.Exuding exquisite refinement, the brooch’s structure is built around a cut and polished piece of rock crystal, giving the piece a floating, graphic appearance. Widely used by Cartier during the Art Deco period—particularly in the creation of this type of brooch—onyx often replaces rock crystal to highlight contrasts. In the same vein, the use of red enamel with black lines—contrasting with the green of the emeralds—evokes the color combinations employed in the creation of other Art Deco pieces, often adorned with coral, onyx, and emeralds, much like the iconic Daisy Fellowes bracelet. Its shoulder design draws directly on an Eastern—and more specifically Indian—ornamental vocabulary. These influences can be traced back, in particular, to the travels of Jacques Cartier. While heading Cartier London, he forged close ties with the maharajas during these journeys, bringing back drawings, jewelry, and objects that became sources of inspiration for the workshops.