164 - SCHIAPARELLI - FALL-WINTER 1947/48 - EVENING ENSEMBLE, JACKET, DRESS

SCHIAPARELLI - FALL-WINTER 1947/48 - EVENING ENSEMBLE, JACKET, DRESS HAUTE COUTURE PEKING SATIN, SILK, RAYON DAMASK BRONZE, BLACK, DARK BROWN STRIPED PATTERN, FLORAL PATTERN BUTTON(S), GOLD-PLATED METAL BOLDUC(S) FROM THE ATELIER WITH HANDWRITTEN BRAND NAME S EVENING ENSEMBLE COMPRISING A BLACK AND COPPER PEKING SATIN JACKET AND A BRONZE AND BLACK IRIDESCENT SATIN DRESS, FEATURING LARGE TULIP-SHAPED DETAILS No. 89332 JACKET No. 29332 SKIRT "FOR THE SPRING 1948 COLLECTION, ELSA SCHIAPARELLI MOVED AWAY FROM ELABORATE EMBROIDERY TO HIGHLIGHT THE BEAUTY OF THE FABRICS, COLORS, AND SILHOUETTES. THE ENSEMBLE SHOWN HERE REVIVED THE AMPHORA-SHAPED SILHOUETTE, INTRODUCED IN AUGUST. THE BRONZE-AND-BLACK-STRIPED SATIN JACKET IS SLIT AT THE FRONT, BULGES AT THE HIPS, AND FALTS BACK AT THE BACK. THE SAME STRIPED FABRIC IS USED FOR THE BODY OF THE DRESS, WHICH EMPHASIZES THE CURVES. THE LUXURIOUS LONG SKIRT IS STRAIGHT IN THE FRONT AND RAISED TOWARD THE BACK TO CREATE A SLIGHT FLARED EFFECT. IT IS MADE OF BRONZE AND BLACK RAYON, WOVEN WITH LARGE PATTERNS OF ELONGATED TULIPS. THIS OUTFIT WAS WORN WITH AN IMPRESSIVE FEATHERED HEADDRESS, AS DEPICTED IN THE ORIGINAL DRAWING. THE PHOTOGRAPH BY HORST P. HORST, TAKEN AT THE LOUVRE IN FRONT OF TOULOUSE-LAUTREC’S *MAURISH DANCER* (1895), APPEARED IN THE DECEMBER ISSUE OF *VOGUE*. ELSA SCHIAPARELLI. DILYS BLUM. MUSEUM OF FASHION AND TEXTILES/UCAD, 2004 EXHIBIT DESIGN: PHILADELPHIA MUSEUM OF ART, GIFT OF MRS. ELSA SCHIAPARELLI, 1969-232-24 BIBLIOGRAPHY: SCHOCKING! THE ART AND FASHION OF ELSA SCHIAPARELLI. DILYS BLUM. PHILADELPHIA MUSEUM OF ART, 2003; ELSA SCHIAPARELLI. DILYS BLUM. MUSEUM OF FASHION AND TEXTILES/UCAD, 2004 SEAMS ON THE DRESS HAVE BEEN RE-SEWN; THE ZIPPER PULL ON THE DRESS IS MISSING; A SMALL SEAM HAS COME UNSTITCHED NEAR THE ZIPPER AT THE WAIST ON THE LEFT SIDE OF THE DRESS (APPROX. 3 CM), A FEW SMALL PULLED THREADS AND SOME SLIGHT SNAGS ON THE JACKET AND DRESS, DRESS SHORTENED WITH MARKING OF THE ORIGINAL HEM, SMALL HEM SEAM NEEDS TO BE RE-SEWN (APPROX. 23 CM) IMAGES: ALL RIGHTS RESERVED VERY GOOD CONDITION