12 - Manila shawl. Philippines, 19th century.

Manila shawl. Philippines, 19th century. Double-sided, hand-embroidered natural silk shawl. In very good condition. One of the fringes has a small tear, barely noticeable. Measurements: 150 x 150 cm; 210 x 210 cm (including the latticework and fringes). Made of black silk, it is embroidered with a complex and intricate design featuring flowers and plant motifs in vibrant colors throughout the fabric. A traditional garment among high-society ladies, the Manila shawl takes its name from the capital of the former Spanish colony of the Philippines, where 16th-century Spanish galleons loaded goods brought from the East for export to Europe and the Americas. It originated in China, where they were made of silk and embroidered by hand. The earliest shawls featured Oriental decorations, such as dragons, bamboo, and pagodas. However, these motifs were soon replaced by European ones, primarily Western flowers and birds. In fact, the fringe was added under Spanish influence. Traditionally, it was meant to cover the entire back and reach the tips of each arm, hence its large size. They were always particularly expensive items, due to the meticulous work involved in weaving the fringe and embroidering the shawl.