1140 - Fashion

Fashion Poiret, Paul Tourterelle. Fashion illustration. Circa 1925, Paris. Watercolor and pencil on vellum. 27.6 x 18 cm. Inscribed and annotated by the artist in ink and pencil; typographic information at the top; a notice prohibiting reproduction at the bottom. Design for a dove-gray tunic dress with a low waist, an arched tunic hem, a bell-shaped, flowing skirt, crossed green-striped ribbons at the V-neckline, and trumpet cuffs with button trim. A rare artifact from the final years of the legendary Parisian fashion house, featuring an exceptionally delicate Art Deco drawing from the atelier of couturier and perfumer Paul Poiret on original letterhead from the firm “Maison Paul Poiret.” - Labeled at the top in ink with the model name “Tourterelle”; below, in pencil, is a note in English from a customer or buyer: “not in grey could add to this dress a very handsome cream tulle collar.” “Tourterelle” serves here as both the model name and the color designation: in 1920s France, the term referred to a delicate dove gray with a slightly warm, violet undertone. - Paul Poiret is considered one of the leading fashion designers of the 1910s and 1920s in Paris and was a pioneer of Art Deco in fashion. His designs, as reflected in this drawing, are characterized by simple, straight, and corset-free lines and succeed in translating the social changes of the era into textiles. Presentation drawings like this one were shown to clients and buyers, who noted their requests directly on the sheet, thus vividly documenting the haute couture business. - Scattered tiny imperfections and very small holes along the top edge, barely noticeable handling marks, and very slight yellowing. Overall, in very good condition. Delicate drawing in vibrant watercolor. Watercolor and pencil on vellum. Inscribed and annotated by the artist in ink and pencil; typographic information at the top; a notice prohibiting reproduction at the bottom. - Design for a dove-gray tunic dress with a dropped waist, scalloped tunic hem, flared bell-shaped skirt, crossed green-striped bands at the V-neck, and trumpet cuffs with button trim. A rare testament to the final years of the legendary Parisian fashion house, featuring an exceptionally delicate Art Deco drawing from the atelier of the couturier and perfumer Paul Poiret on original stationery from the firm “Maison Paul Poiret.” - Inscribed at the top in ink with the model name “Tourterelle”; below, in pencil, is a note in English from a client or buyer: “not in grey—could add to this dress a very handsome cream tulle collar.” “Tourterelle” serves here as both the model name and the color name: in 1920s France, the term denoted a delicate dove gray with a slightly warm, violet undertone. - Paul Poiret is regarded as one of the most important couturiers in Paris during the 1910s and 1920s and a pioneer of Art Deco in fashion. As this drawing illustrates, his designs are characterized by simple, straight, corset-free lines and successfully translate the social changes of the time into textiles. Presentation drawings such as this one were shown to clients and buyers, who noted their requests directly on the sheet, and thus vividly document the business of haute couture. - Occasional tiny losses and very small pinholes along the upper margin; barely noticeable handling marks; and very slight yellowing. Overall in very good condition. Delicate drawing with luminous watercolor.