67 - Audemars Piguet - Royal Oak Jumbo A-Series

Audemars Piguet - Royal Oak Jumbo A-Series A stunning vintage Geneva steel wristwatch with date and tropical dial—a "cult" watch from the first A series! Ref. 5402ST, Cal. 2121, Case No. A1297, Dimensions 39 x 48 mm, circa 1973, Origin: Switzerland Case: Steel, screw-down caseback, AP steel bracelet, total length 175 mm. Dial: Black, “Petite tapisserie” guilloche pattern. Movement: Automatic. When the Royal Oak was launched in 1972, its unusual design—featuring an octagonal bezel, “tapisserie” dial, and integrated bracelet—was considered extremely novel and unorthodox, making the watch a true modern style icon. It was the first steel wristwatch Audemars Piguet had produced. The design was by Gérald Genta, whose designs were also used for the Patek Philippe Nautilus and the IWC Ingenieur, and the movement was by Jaeger-LeCoultre. It was considered the thinnest automatic movement of its time and featured a 21-karat gold oscillating weight. The clearly legible dial was made of a guilloché-finished metal alloy and was more expensive than gold in the early 1970s. The machining of the bracelet was just as costly, because steel is much harder and more difficult to work with than gold. The case was cut from a solid block of metal. The eight hexagonal screws are part of a patented case seal and are made of 18-karat white gold. The first Royal Oak series consisted of 1,000 pieces. After another series of 1,000 pieces with the prefix “A,” Audemars Piguet continued with the “B” and “C” series, and so on. As can be seen from the case number on the case back, this Royal Oak is from the first series, of which only 2,000 pieces were produced. In keeping with the early series, the “AP” letter signature is located on the dial above the 6 o’clock hour marker and not at 12 o’clock, as is the case with the more recent models from the C series. The “tapisserie” dial appears to have been replaced during a service, likely in the early 1980s, as the inscription reads “Swiss Made” rather than “Swiss” beneath the 6 o’clock position. Its pyramid-shaped squares have changed color from black to a softly shimmering hazelnut brown due to exposure to light, giving the watch a particularly distinctive vintage character. During the service, the crown was replaced with a later version, as it bears the AP logo. The Royal Oak baton hands, however, are original and filled with luminous material that has developed an attractive patina and now appears in a light beige tone. Overall, the timepiece is in well-maintained condition with sharp facets. In keeping with its age, the case shows some slight signs of wear; however, the engravings on the caseback are deep and exceptionally well-preserved. The beautiful, original steel bracelet is in perfect condition and has a fair amount of “stretch”—this is certainly a rare and unique opportunity to acquire such a magnificent and one-of-a-kind trophy watch. Case: very good, worn, later original crown. Dial: very good, slightly oxidized, later original. Movement: very good, running, cleaning recommended. Please note that leather straps made from endangered or protected species—such as alligator, crocodile, or lizard—are used in our catalog or on our website for illustrative purposes only. For customs-related reasons, such straps cannot be shipped outside the EU.