Beyond Metal: A Newfound Freedom
Throughout the 1980s and 1990s, Rabanne continued to reinvent his approach, exploring unexpected materials and pushing the boundaries of garment construction. Plexiglas, optical fibres, metallic paper, repurposed textiles and unconventional combinations all found their way into his imaginative designs. In 1988, for instance, he created sheath dresses using laser discs. In 1990, Paco Rabanne was awarded the prestigious Dé d'Or for haute couture.
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Left: PACO RABANNE – Spring/Summer 1993 Haute Couture
Armour-inspired bustier made from stainless-steel rods encased in transparent rubber,
with twistedsilver-tone metal strips.
Estimate: €300–500
Right: PACO RABANNE – Circa 1985–1990
Sleeveless top composed of elongated navette-shaped metal plates
linked together by rings.
Estimate: €300–500
Between Haute Couture and Everyday Dressing
What makes this collection particularly compelling is the sheer diversity of pieces brought together by its owner. Alongside the designer's most daring creations, which showcase his formal experimentation, are numerous ready-to-wear designs conceived to be worn and enjoyed. Ingenious construction, inventive use of materials and unexpected details are carried through into pieces suited to everyday life, without sacrificing any of their originality.
Among the highlights is a two-piece ensemble made from panels of cotton dyed to create a faded, animal-print effect, joined together with metal rings (estimate: €800–1,200). It perfectly illustrates the meeting point between Rabanne's experimental spirit and the practical possibilities of a wearable wardrobe.
PACO RABANNE – Spring/Summer 1991
Ready-to-Wear Two-piece ensemble made from panels of cotton dyed to create a faded animal-print effect,
joined together with metal rings.
Estimate: €800–1,200
A Sense of Fashion History
The collector's passion for Paco Rabanne, however, is just one facet of her broader interest in fashion. Her wardrobe also includes earlier creations that reflect a genuine appreciation for the history of couture and the evolution of the female silhouette.
Pieces by Maggy Rouff and Lucien Lelong evoke the golden age of Parisian couture in the mid-20th century. An elegant black evening gown by Madame Grès adds another highlight to the collection (estimate: €200–300). Its fitted bustier and fluid draping, sweeping gracefully over the shoulder, exemplify the refinement of a couturière who made her mastery of fabric and movement her unmistakable signature.
GRÈS (Haute Couture?), circa 1950–1955
Column-style evening gown.
Estimate: €200–300
The Essential Elements of a Collector's Wardrobe
Completing this fashion-focused offering, the ALLURES sale also features a selection of jewellery, watches and leather goods. Collectors and fashion enthusiasts will find Hermès silk scarves, as well as hats and headpieces by Jacques Fath and Jeanne Lanvin.
From accessories by leading fashion houses to antique and contemporary jewellery and couture creations, the sale explores the many facets of the art of dressing and adornment.