By Philippe Dufour
With its openwork link structure, perfectly mastered gold carving, large cabochon gemstone and decorative vocabulary of fantastical creature heads, this bracelet is instantly recognizable as a Louis Wièse creation, made around 1890. The jeweler came from a family of Berlin jewelers who settled in Paris. We often talk about the German cabinet-makers who migrated to the French capital in the18th century and completely renewed the furniture scene there : jewelers were also involved ! His father, Jules (1818-1890), set up shop here in 1839. Trained by François-Désiré Froment-Meurice, before becoming his main supplier, he produced goldsmiths' and jewelers' creations with a degree of inventiveness matched only by their technical sophistication.
Louis Wièse (1852–1923)
Gold bracelet with cabochon sapphire flanked by fantastical creature heads
c. 1890.
Estimate: €12,000/15,000
These pieces, fully in tune with the decorative opulence of the Second Empire, earned his workshop prosperity, with up to twenty-five workers, and medals at the Paris (1855) and London (1862) World Fairs. Louis was therefore well-schooled, and started out by copying certain models.
But talented youngsters needed more innovation, and very soon, when his father stopped working in 1880 and handed over to him, he added his first name to this fine lineage.
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