66 - WOMEN’S CEREMONIAL COAT (PIRPIRI OR DZUBE)

WOMEN’S CEREMONIAL COAT (PIRPIRI OR DZUBE) Ottoman Balkans, Epirus (Ioannina region, Greece, or Albania), 19th century, circa 1850 A sleeveless ceremonial overgarment, fitted at the bust and flaring widely toward the bottom, characteristic of the wedding and ceremonial attire of the Christian and Muslim elites of Epirus and Albania under the Ottoman Empire. A long garment, open along the entire front, structured by rigid trapezoidal panels that give the skirt its flared silhouette. The armholes, left open to allow the sleeves of the undergarment to pass through, are flanked at the back by two long, rectangular, hanging faux sleeves—purely decorative—that taper to a point. The velvet is almost entirely covered with high-relief embroidery, featuring cord and soutache made of gold and silver metallic threads (sirma and kaytan), created using the technique of the Terzi embroiderers. The design features broad spiral arabesques, stylized botehs (palmettes), plant scrolls, and rosettes on the lower panels and the false sleeves. The bodice and stand-up collar are accented with vertical rows of parallel metallic cords. The front edges are highlighted by a wide woven gold braid and a crenellated festoon made of silk and metal trimmings. The bodice features two vertical rows of large ornamental spherical buttons, woven from metal threads and accented with salmon-coral silk. Fully lined with lustrous coppery-ochre silk taffeta, visible beneath the faux sleeves. H. 103 cm; W. (open) 150 cm (In very good condition. Natural oxidation and uniform golden patina on the metal threads. Slight wear on the lower edges, some scuffing on the lining) Provenance: private collection, Italy. Bibliography: I. Papantoniou, *Doulamas, the Magnificent* [publisher, year to be completed]; I. Papantoniou, *Greek Traditional Costumes* [exact title, publisher, year to be verified]; C. Moulherat, Gold-Embroidered Costumes of the Balkans [publisher, year to be completed].