101 - Eugène FONTENAY (1824–1887) for MELLERIO, known as MELLER.

Eugène FONTENAY (1824–1887) for MELLERIO, known as MELLER. Neo-Etruscan necklace in 18K yellow gold (750/000) composed of a series of stylized motifs of oat ears, foliage, and rosettes suspended on a chain concealed by channels adorned with twisted gold wires; invisible clasp. Napoleon III period, circa 1865. The jeweler’s hallmark is partially obscured by the hallmark of guarantee (eagle’s head). One of the links is marked “DEPOSE” in accordance with the law on trademarks and manufacturers (1857). Gross weight: 60.4 g. L: 42 cm. In its red-and-gold case with the small Mellerio iron mark monogrammed “H” beneath a crown (as is). Bibliography: -The same model illustrated: Henri Vever, *French Jewelry in the 19th Century*, vol. II, 1908, p. 169 -An original drawing by Eugène Fontenay titled “Collier Avoine” featuring the same motifs: Ibid., p. 181 - Michael Koch, Evelyne Possémé, Judy Rudoe, *The Belle Époque of French Jewelry 1850–1910*, Th. Heneage, 1989, p. 58, for a necklace with a similar design. Collections: - A similar necklace sold by Ch. Fontana & Co. is housed at the Musée des Beaux-Arts de la Ville de Paris (Petit Palais) under inventory number PPO03800. Eugène Fontenay (1824–1887) was a leading 19th-century Parisian jeweler, renowned for his designs inspired by archaeological discoveries. The 1861 exhibition at the Louvre of the famous Campana Collection, rich in Greek and Roman jewelry, profoundly influenced his style. Rather than copying ancient models, Fontenay adapted ancient forms and techniques to contemporary tastes. At the 1867 World’s Fair, he received a gold medal for his creations inspired by Greek, Roman, and Etruscan jewelry. Fontenay also played an important role in organizing the profession: alongside Frédéric Boucheron and Antoine Mellerio, among others, he helped found the Chambre Syndicale de la Bijouterie-Joaillerie-Orfèvrerie and supported the training of young artisans. He published several specialized articles, and his book *Bijoux Anciens et Modernes* was published posthumously in 1887.