216 - TONY DUQUETTE: AN 18K GOLD AND AMBER BRACELET Composed of alternating polished gold and amber crescent-shaped segments, mounted in 18K gold, signed Tony Duquette, length approximately 16.6cm

TONY DUQUETTE: AN 18K GOLD AND AMBER BRACELET Composed of alternating polished gold and amber crescent-shaped segments, mounted in 18K gold, signed Tony Duquette, length approximately 16.6cm Condition Report: Clasp closes securely and has a safety catch Normal signs of wear, overall in good condition Total gross weight approx. 118.9g Tony Duquette (1914–1999) was a Los Angeles-based American artist and designer whose creativity extended beyond jewellery into painting, sculpture, interior design, theatre, film and costume. Early in his career, Duquette established himself as one of Hollywood’s most imaginative designers, translating the spectacle of movies and theatre into fine jewellery. Duquette developed a distinctive jewellery style characterised by bold proportions and an unconventional approach to materials. Guided by his philosophy that ‘More is more, and less is a bore’, he leaned into richly coloured gemstones and unusual combinations. Malachite, coral, amethyst, citrine, turquoise, aquamarine and pearls feature prominently in his creations, often combined with gold and diamonds. He was drawn to the individual character, colour and natural beauty of gemstones and favoured individuality over standardised uniformity in his creations. The drama and exuberance of his designs blur the boundaries between fine jewellery, sculpture and wearable art. His interest in jewellery began early in his career, when he created bespoke pieces for his mother, aunts and wife, before undertaking commissions for private clients. One of his most celebrated creations was the Floral Wreath necklace, commissioned in the early 1950s by the Duke of Windsor for the Duchess of Windsor. Crafted in 18 carat yellow gold with citrine, peridot and pearls, it exemplified his ability to transform natural forms into elaborate jewels. He continued designing for private clients and, in the 1980s, created jewellery for Tom Ford at Gucci. In the late 1990s, he also developed a collection of one-of-a-kind jewels for Bergdorf Goodman. Duquette’s jewellery reflects the same imaginative sensibility as his interior and costume designs. He was fascinated by the decorative potential of unexpected materials found in nature and everyday objects. Seashells, coral branches, abalone and coloured glass became fundamental elements of his artistic vocabulary. His designs combined organic motifs with geometric influences and references to Hollywood glamour, Art Deco, and traditional decorative arts. The resulting pieces were unapologetically extravagant, with richly textured surfaces, vivid colour contrasts and striking silhouettes. Following Duquette’s death in 1999, his creative legacy was continued by Hutton Wilkinson, his protégé, business partner and design collaborator of twenty years. Through Wilkinson’s stewardship, Duquette’s distinctive aesthetic remains alive today. Their shared vision has been celebrated in exhibitions, including a 2013 presentation at the Gemological Institute of America (GIA) Museum in Carlsbad, which showcased their dramatic use of colour, unconventional gemstones and inventive combinations. Duquette’s jewellery was also presented at Kentshire Galleries at Bergdorf Goodman in New York, where creations inspired by his original gemstones and designs demonstrated the enduring appeal of his exuberant style. His pieces have attracted attention at auction and remain sought after by collectors for their individuality, craftsmanship and artistic character.