211 - Delicate draped necklace in 800 silver with 18k gold plating (750e), featuring a hinged fringe of old-cut diamonds in a cluster setting, embellished with three retractable elements that allow for the addition of pendants and an invisible ratchet clasp.

Delicate draped necklace in 800 silver with 18k gold plating (750e), featuring a hinged fringe of old-cut diamonds in a cluster setting, embellished with three retractable elements that allow for the addition of pendants and an invisible ratchet clasp. French craftsmanship from the second half of the 19th century. Total diamond weight: approximately 40 carats. It comes with its original case, shaped like a navy blue morocco leather box with gold trim and small iron accents; the interior is lined with blue velvet and signed “BAUGRAND, Joaillier Bijoutier, 19, rue de la Paix,” and monogrammed “K.T.” on the lid. (Some wear inside) Gross weight: 78.30 g. Length: approximately 37.5 cm. Historically, the Baugrand house was founded by Victor Baugrand (1803–1872), who began his career as a gem setter before establishing himself as an independent jeweler. His son, Gustave Baugrand (1826–1870), later joined him and went into partnership with the jeweler Paul Marret. Together, they helped bring the house to its peak, notably through their participation in several World’s Fairs, during which their craftsmanship was recognized—including the award of a gold medal. The fame the firm acquired earned them the prestigious title of “jeweler to the Emperor,” opening the doors to a clientele of princes and emperors. Baugrand thus received commissions from sovereigns and members of several European courts. Among their clients was Queen Marie of Hanover, who owned a significant pearl necklace crafted by Baugrand; her daughter-in-law was Princess Thyra of Denmark, who became the titular Crown Princess of Hanover and Duchess of Cumberland and Teviotdale through marriage. The initials “K.T.” on our jewelry box could be interpreted as standing for “Kronprinsesse Thyra,” corresponding to the Danish title held by Princess Thyra of Denmark after her marriage to Ernest Augustus of Hanover. However, no documented piece found to date establishes that “K.T.” was her customary personal monogram. While not constituting formal proof of provenance, this correspondence, combined with the quality and nature of the jewelry, allows for this hypothesis to be considered. Upon Gustave Baugrand’s death in 1870, the firm was taken over by Ernest Vever, another leading figure in French jewelry.