264 - Paul Poiret (attributed to), women’s coat, circa 1915–1918, loose-fitting double-breasted cape coat in amaranth wool cloth, with a shawl collar and fox-fur cuffs. The waist is accentuated by box pleats concealing two front pockets; the coat fastens with a large button covered in the same fabric, and the sleeves are pleated at the forearm with two buttoned tabs. All the interior seams of the lower part of the coat are edged with tone-on-tone satin; the lining of the tapered upper section reveals various white-printed marks. In all likelihood, this coat was cut from the amaranth-colored cloth intended for the uniform trousers of the French infantry. Because this amaranth red made our soldiers too easily identifiable to the enemy, it was abandoned at the start of the Great War in favor of horizon blue (minor damage to the fur; lining removed).

Paul Poiret (attributed to), women’s coat, circa 1915–1918, loose-fitting double-breasted cape coat in amaranth wool cloth, with a shawl collar and fox-fur cuffs. The waist is accentuated by box pleats concealing two front pockets; the coat fastens with a large button covered in the same fabric, and the sleeves are pleated at the forearm with two buttoned tabs. All the interior seams of the lower part of the coat are edged with tone-on-tone satin; the lining of the tapered upper section reveals various white-printed marks. In all likelihood, this coat was cut from the amaranth-colored cloth intended for the uniform trousers of the French infantry. Because this amaranth red made our soldiers too easily identifiable to the enemy, it was abandoned at the start of the Great War in favor of horizon blue (minor damage to the fur; lining removed). Provenance: the wardrobe of the wife of a senior General Staff officer.