62 - Thierry Mugler.

Thierry Mugler. A Thierry Mugler cobalt-blue tailored jacket and skirt set, of sculpted, fitted form with strong shoulders and broad notched lapels, each lapel pierced with a large star-shaped cut-out, the waist fastened with a sculptural silver-tone star fitting and with corresponding star detail to the cuff; labelled Thierry Mugler Paris, Made in France, size 46 (approx. UK 14); and a matching skirt of back zip closure, labelled Thierry Mugler Paris, Made in France, size 46 (approx. UK 14). (2) Grade B Provenance: An Important Private Collection. Notes: The star was a recurring and highly recognisable motif within Thierry Mugler's visual vocabulary, particularly prominent in his mid-to-late 1980s collections. Rather than being applied simply as surface decoration, here the motif is incorporated directly into the construction of the garment: bold star-shaped sections are cut from the lapels, allowing the body beneath to become part of the design. The corresponding silver-tone star fittings reinforce the motif in three dimensions, contrasting with the disciplined geometry of the tailoring. Colour was equally important to Mugler's runway image during this period. Saturated shades of electric and cobalt blue appeared alongside metallic embellishment and sharply constructed silhouettes, creating the heightened, graphic effect characteristic of his presentations. On the present jacket, the intense blue emphasizes the exaggerated shoulder line and narrow waist, while the dark negative space of the cut-outs and flashes of silver create a striking contrast. The combination of architectural tailoring, saturated colour, celestial imagery and sculptural metal ornament encapsulates several of the defining features of Mugler's runway language of the period. The star, in particular, functions not merely as decoration but as part of the jacket's architecture, transforming the conventional lapel into a graphic and immediately recognisable design element.