28 - Yves Saint Laurent, attributed to Tom Ford.

Yves Saint Laurent, attributed to Tom Ford. A cream knitted gilet, circa 2003, with horizontal bands of Danish mink fur and an oversized Scandinavian fox fur collar, with a half-way frontal zip fastening, the knitted fabric of 100% wool, size small. Grade B-C Notes: Tom Ford’s tenure at Yves Saint Laurent Rive Gauche, from 2000 to 2004, marks a significant chapter in the house’s history. Appointed creative director of its women’s and men’s ready-to-wear collections following Gucci Group’s acquisition, Ford assumed responsibility during a period of profound change. Yves Saint Laurent’s retirement and the closure of the haute couture division in 2002 placed ready-to-wear at the centre of the house’s continuing creative identity. Ford’s contribution lay in translating Saint Laurent’s established vocabulary into a distinctly contemporary expression of sensuality and luxury. His ability to reinterpret the archive received institutional recognition: designs from his Autumn/Winter 2001 and 2004 collections were selected as the Fashion Museum Bath’s Dress of the Year. The museum’s account of the latter highlights his transformation of references from Saint Laurent’s celebrated 1970s Chinese collection into a design suited to a new generation. The Autumn/Winter 2003 collection provides a relevant comparison for the present gilet. Fur, velvet, satin ribbons and Chantilly lace were combined with dramatic volume and body-conscious silhouettes, giving luxurious materials a provocative immediacy. Here, the contrast between cream wool knit, horizontal bands of mink and an expansive fox-fur collar creates a similarly sumptuous interplay of textures. The knitted foundation introduces softness and ease, while the collar frames the upper body with a pronounced sense of drama. Cf. The lot is attributed to the tenure of the house Yves Saint Laurent Rive Gauche by Tom Ford, Autumn/Winter 2003 ready-to-wear.