14 - Hermès attributed to Martin Margiela.

Hermès attributed to Martin Margiela. A Hermès ivory wool skirt, circa 1990s–early 2000s, of knee-length form with a fitted waistband and gently tailored silhouette, fully lined, of 100% wool, size 46 (approx. UK 16). Grade B Provenance: An important private collection. Notes: Martin Margiela’s tenure at Hermès, from 1997 to 2003, established a distinctive approach to luxury centred on comfort, exceptional materials and enduring design. Across his women’s ready-to-wear collections, he developed a gradually evolving wardrobe intended to serve the wearer beyond a single season. The significance of this work was explored in MoMu’s exhibition Margiela, the Hermès Years, which examined the relationship between his designs for Hermès and his own label. Attributed to this period, the present ivory wool skirt offers a restrained expression of that wardrobe philosophy. Its fitted waistband and gently tailored, knee-length silhouette place the emphasis on proportion and the quality of the cloth. The pale colour allows subtle changes in light and surface to define the garment, while the lining provides a considered interior finish. The skirt’s understated character invites comparison with Margiela’s vision for Hermès: clothing whose appeal rests in its material, construction and relationship to the body. Its simplicity makes it a versatile foundation for an ensemble, reflecting the lasting usefulness central to his approach.