67 - Line VAUTRIN (1913–1997).

Line VAUTRIN (1913–1997). Long necklace in black Talosel, inlaid with double-sided antique gold mirror shards, with a hook clasp and silver-plated metal hinges; unsigned. Slide of the necklace dating from November 1983. Circa 1983. Length when extended: 125 cm. Line Vautrin (1913‒1997) was a self-taught French designer who, thanks to her father—a metal caster—had been fascinated by metalwork since childhood. After a brief stint at Elsa Schiaparelli, she developed her first designs on her own, particularly in bronze, a material that was not highly valued at the time. Beginning in 1937, her career took off; she opened boutiques in Paris and gained recognition for her inventiveness: buttons, jewelry, accessories, and decorative objects. She stood out for her ability to transform simple materials into something exquisite, particularly during the war. In the 1940s and 1950s, her business expanded significantly, featuring a wide variety of creations combining bronze, glass, porcelain, and ivory. In the 1960s, she turned to resin and Talosel—a processed cellulose acetate—creating highly original mirrors and objects inlaid with colorful fragments. She ceased her commercial activities in 1968 to devote herself to other artistic and spiritual pursuits. Rediscovered in the 1980s, her work experienced a resurgence of international interest. Her work, which defies categorization as either jewelry or an art object, is characterized by great creativity, a taste for poetry, wordplay, and symbolic references. A pioneering and defiantly unique artist, she embodied the artistic spirit of Paris in the 1940s and 1950s, while remaining profoundly original. Her principal artistic legacy is having transformed materials considered humble into poetic and unique works, turning them into works of art and collectibles that are now highly sought after by collectors, the most famous of whom is the American pop star Madonna.