70 - Audemars Piguet - Perpetual Calendar Chronograph

Audemars Piguet - Perpetual Calendar Chronograph (*) A very fine, rare neo-vintage Geneva wristwatch with chronograph, perpetual calendar, and moon phase—one of the most sophisticated and complex "neo-vintage" wristwatches on the market and extremely rare in solid platinum Movm. No. 355764, Ref. 25695PT, Cal. 2126/2839, Case No. C98023, Dimensions 40 mm, circa 1992, Origin: Switzerland, Original box, Extract from the archives, original platinum clasp Case: Platinum, push-back clasp. Dial: Silvered, applied hour markers, small seconds, 30-minute and 12-hour counters, tachymeter scale, moon phase, day-date-month-leap year indicator, baton hands. Movement: Automatic. The Audemars Piguet Huitième Perpetual Calendar Chronograph, reference 25695PT, strikingly embodies the transition from classical haute horlogerie to the modern watchmaking of the late 1980s and early 1990s. With its blend of traditional design, generous proportions, and sophisticated mechanics, it holds a distinctive place within the Huitième collection. The substantial 40 mm platinum case gives the watch a notably modern presence for its era. The characteristic bezel, engraved with the “Audemars Piguet” signature, adds a bold visual accent. Despite its size and considerable weight, the “Perpetual Calendar Chronograph” retains the elegance that defines the brand’s grand complications. Particularly appealing is the silvered dial, whose design is clearly inspired by the classic chronographs of the 1950s and 1960s. Softly opalescent surfaces, silver-toned framing, applied hour markers, and an elegant serif typeface lend it a distinctly traditional character. A tachymeter scale along the outer edge emphasizes the chronograph’s sporty nature. Behind this well-balanced design lies remarkable mechanical complexity. The watch combines a chronograph, perpetual calendar, and moon phase display. The wealth of information is clearly arranged across the subsidiary dials: day, date, month, leap year, and small seconds, along with the 30-minute and 12-hour chronograph counters. A particular highlight is the moon-phase display at 3 o’clock, featuring an exquisitely executed depiction. Reference 25695PT is powered by the automatic caliber 2126/2839, based on a Jaeger-LeCoultre ébauche and paired with a Dubois-Dépraz complication module. In doing so, the Huitième combines one of the most demanding traditional complications with the convenience of automatic winding—a combination that was far from commonplace in the early 1990s. According to the accompanying excerpt from the archives, this timepiece was manufactured in 1992 and is crafted entirely from platinum with a solid caseback. The understated elegance of the silvered dial forms a striking contrast to the technical sophistication of the movement and the imposing presence of the platinum case. Case: very good, worn. Dial: very good. Movement: very good, in working order, cleaning recommended. Please note that leather straps made from endangered or protected species—such as alligator, crocodile, or lizard—are used in our catalog or on our website for illustrative purposes only. For customs-related reasons, such straps cannot be shipped outside the EU.