34 - VAN CLEEF & ARPELS

VAN CLEEF & ARPELS Title: Important Gemstone and Diamond Jabot Pin. Origin: USA, New York. Date: Ca. 1940/50. Material: Platinum, hallmark, pin 750/- red gold, tested. Weight: 27.5 g. Measurement: Length 10 cm, width 7.8 cm. Description: 1 rectangular, faceted diamond, 8.5 x 10.9 mm, M/SI2, ca. 95 diamonds in old-cut, in total ca. 5.4 ct., H-J/VS-SI, 8 diamonds in carré-, and 8/8-cut, 1 diamond in a pear-cut, ca. 0.8 ct., bicolour ranging from whisky-coloured to slightly yellowish. 1 sugar-loaf-shaped sapphire, 12.85 x 10.12 x 9.50 mm, presumably 11.69 ct. (scratched), intense, brilliant and velvety blue, probably Burmese, 1 emerald in emerald-cut ca. 3.7 ct., brilliant, intense green, presumably Colombian, 7 rubies in various cuts, in total ca. 1.3 ct., 7 round emerald cabochons, Ø ca. 2.2–3.7 mm, 10 carved sapphires, ca. 4.1–5.2 x 3.3–3.6 mm. Signed "V.C.A." on the pin. Decorative element signed "Van Cleef & Arpels". Further hallmarks "N.Y." and individual number "28671" on the pin and decorative element. "DEPOSE" as a further hallmark on the central main element. The sapphire’s carat weight is scratched into the reverse of the setting. This exquisite jabot pin is a striking embodiment of the bold, sculptural vocabulary of American jewellery design in the 1940s. At its centre is an imposing sugarloaf sapphire, whose dramatically elevated profile lends the pin a pronounced three-dimensional quality. Surrounded by diamonds and carved coloured gemstones, and accented by an emerald and a fancy-coloured diamond, the composition follows a clear visual hierarchy, combining dominant coloured gemstones, precise contours and architectural volumes. In this respect, the pin differs from French haute joaillerie, although its geometric clarity still reflects the formal language of Art Deco. It embodies the “skyscraper” aesthetic characteristic of American design, with its daring forms and monumental proportions. This development should also be viewed in the context of Van Cleef & Arpels’ opening of its New York boutique on Fifth Avenue in 1929, through which the Parisian maison strategically expanded into the American market. The jabot pin is an exemplary expression of an American interpretation of the Van Cleef & Arpels aesthetic: larger in scale, more sculptural and more architectural. The articulated strand of diamonds suspended from a small emerald can rotate, adding a playful touch to this important jewel. Provenance: - From private German ownership. Enclosure: Original box enclosed. Estimated shipping costs for this lot: Inland: The lot is unsuitable for parcel shipping. Transport only by shipping company after consultation following the auction. EU: 625.00 Euro plus 118.75 Euro VAT Third country: 625.00 Euro plus 118.75 Euro VAT additional shipping insurance Shipping insurance up to total invoice amount of 25,000 Euros: max. 41.65 Euro over a total invoice amount of 25,000 Euros: 1.8 o/oo USA by individual arrangement after the auction. #Van Cleef & Arpels #USA, New York #gemstones #1940s #Platinum #Pin #Jewellery.